Ice Maker Continues to Run Water
- #2
How did you stop Niagara Falls? Did you need to shut off the water supply to the machine? If so, there is a couple ways to tell which one failed. With the ice maker removed from the machine turn the water back on. If water immediately starts flowing out of the ice maker fill tube, replace the water valve. Sometimes the valve can stick open. Shutting the water off relieves the pressure and the valve might close. Look at the position of the ice maker ejector rake. Holding the ice maker so you're looking at the power module and cover, the rake should be in the 3:00 position. If it's in the 1:00 or 2:00 position it may have stalled in the fill cycle, Replace the ice maker.
If the ice maker ejector rake is in the correct position and when you turn the water on none comes out the fill tube, connect the ice maker connector for a couple seconds. If water starts to flow out of the fill tube, the contacts in the ice maker are stuck together, replace the ice maker. If no water the problem is the water valve stuck open. It may be difficult to reproduce the problem but try this; Leave the ice maker disconnected and place a container or something to catch water under the ice maker fill tube. Use a cheater/test cord and connect it to the ice maker solenoid on the water valve (red). Plug the test cord into a power supply for about 7 seconds. This will supply 110 VAC directly to the solenoid and the valve will open. Unplugging the test cord should shut the water off immediately. Do that a couple times to see if the valve sticks open.
Water Inlet Valve W10408179
Ice Maker Assembly 2198597
- #3
Hi Rick - thanks for answering. I quickly pulled the unit away from the wall and unplugged it. I then turned the water off. After cleaning up the mess, I turned the water on, and plugged it in. There was no water coming out of the black fill tube. But I read elsewhere that it may take time for the water to come back on. And you also said what I did may have shut the water valve off. I didn't want to have any more flooding so I just shut the water off and flipped the ice maker switch to off. That's when I pulled the ice maker out. I've attached 2 pics of the ice maker here. I'm not sure what the position is Hopefully you can tell. I thought it was 3 o'clock. But then my wife thought it was more like 1 or 2.
I don't know what a cheater/test cord is. I suppose I could get one if I knew what it looked like 
And I'm not sure what the red water valve is you mention on the ice maker solenoid. (For some reason, the second pic, came in upside down, go figure.)
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- #4
It looks like the ice maker is going to be the problem. The ejector rake is in the fill position. What happens sometimes is on the end of the ejector rake is a cam with hills and valleys and several sets of contact points ride on the cam. When the contacts are suppose to open it reaches a valley and the lower contact falls into the valley opening the contacts. When the contacts are suppose to be closed they ride over a hill closing the contacts. When the ice maker motor becomes weak it has trouble pulling the contacts out of a valley or over a hill and the motor can stall. It doesn't work exactly like that. I made it simple to understand.
A test cord or cheater cord is nothing more than an old lamp cord with a couple alligator clips attached to the wires. It's an easy way to supply 120 VAC from a wall outlet to a component. Bench test is another term. During the fill cycle the ice maker supplies 120 VAC to the water valve and the water valve opens. The valve can be opened by supplying 120 VAC from a wall outlet.
The water valve has two solenoids/coils on it. The green solenoid opens the valve for the dispenser. The red solenoid opens the valve for the ice maker.
Replace the ice maker. No more testing required.
- #8
You sure can, You don't need to turn the switch to off either but if it gives you peace of mind then by all means turn it off. Off or On, won't matter.
Source: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/ice-maker-overflowing-with-water.57132/
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